Bessie and Me: Shifting Gears

Half way through the 501 miles today, I'm thinking three short days at home was not quite enough to repair the jet lag and find my center after our trip to Hawaii. Ugh. Final thoughts on said trip....been there, done that, bought at least three t-shirts each. Always grateful for the chance to travel, but would not return to Hawaii...overpriced, over-hyped, and we have some of the most beautiful beaches in the world right here in Florida. On the return trip home, Paul and I started our day in Honolulu with coffee on the beach just as the sun was coming up, we hopped on a plane at noon to head west, saw the sun set from First Class as we approached Catalina Island and LAX. Hopped on another plane, saw the sun rise from First Class as we approached Orlando....all within 20 hours. In between, my toughest decision was whether I wanted stir fry beef or potato gnocchi for dinner. Then I had to decide which KIND of dinner roll I wanted to accompany dinner. THEN after dinner, the flight att...

"Let's swim out to the break wall, " she said...it I'll be fun! I damn near ended my stay on Waikiki by drowning, poor Paul. It was any easy swim for us out to the break wall, fairly deep, but we watch KIDS do it for the past two weeks! Just as I reached the wall, gripped the top of it to pull myself up, a giant wave hit me square in the face, salt water down my throat, up my nose, in my eyes ...knocked me under, I'm choking, can't breathe, can't swim, can't find bottom. Paul got knocked under too, I can't even find breath to scream...well, since I'm writing this I obviously survived. In all my ocean/water adventures over the world I've never had such a near drowning experience.  Paul was finished w his job yesterday, so today was a touring day. The hike up Diamond Head is .7 miles of fairly rugged terrain, but it is an easy switchback trail...until you get to the final ascent. We encountered an energetic hiker w a Go Pro camera on his helm...

My day started w an eight mile hike around the base of Diamond Head...we plan to hike up to the crater before we leave.  Stopped to chat with a guy on a Harley along my hike ( seriously, some of my best stories start with that line...). I'm fascinated with the concept of owning a bike and only being able to go around in a circle! The circumference of Oahu is only 230 - some miles...I mean how boring would that get? He's never ridden anywhere else in the world on his bike...sad.  Stopped and talked to a surfer who was waxing his surfboard and his feet, yes, his feet. I asked him if he did this every day...and yes, almost every day. He told me the surf wasn't very high today though. Did a little shopping - okay, a lot of shopping - for souvenirs and gifts. Found a couple of shops for unique hand made jewelry. I also collect skulls and when I find both in one...Bingo!  Picked up,a,Koa wood carved motorcycle with a freaky tiki God like rider...ape hangers and all. Another set...

After a breakfast of Kona coffee and my mango creme malasadas, First order of business today was a mani/pedi, of which I paid twice what I pay back home....but I never complain too much about the cost of pampering myself. The girls at Crystal Nail Salon treated me like a princess and even painted plumeria flowers on my nails! On my walk about this morning, I took a different direction to see what I could see...more statues in lush green parks, more expensive shops -all of which I can patronize if I so choose in Orlando - more crazy street people and a different view of the beach. I headed back to the hotel to visit the fitness center and my 8am yoga class with Lauren.  I decided to have sushi for lunch, Paul is not a fan. The California roll and Inari were yummy!  Spent the rest of my day reading - out of the sun - until Paul returned. Looking forward to a drive up to the North Shore. The drive from Waikiki past Pearl City is just stop and go on the H1, traffic here is unbelie...

The most difficult thing I did today was two loads of laundry in the hotel laundromat...adjacent to the pool. All day in my bathing suit, the sun, a cool refreshing beverage, and a book. Finished the biography of Cornelia Fort that I purchased at the Pacific Aviation Museum the other day. Cornelia Fort (1919-1943) was one of the first female Army pilots, but prior to her assignment to the WAFS, she was in the air over Pearl Harbor ( as a flight instructor) on December 7, 1941 when the Japanese attacked. She dodged the bullets from a Japanese plane intent on destroying the airstrip, taking the controls from her student pilot and landing them safely while Pearl Harbor was under siege. There is an exhibit at the museum featuring the women pilots who ferried planes from factory to airfields during WW2. Cornelia is a fascinating female figure of history and I've thoroughly enjoyed Rob Simbecks bio, 'Daughter of the Air.' The search for a decent meal under a $100 dollars consumes...

The first rigorous challenge of the day? Finding coffee. The island doesn't exactly wake up when we do; the complimentary coffee in the room barely fills two micro cups and tastes like someone passed a coffee bean over hot water. Kona is just a little strip along the rocky coast with an assortment of shops and restaurants, so choices are limited. We head out for what turns into our first hike of the day...about a mile and a half until one little coffee shop opens. We sit across from the ocean, gulping our cup of rich Kona blend like the coffee addicts we are. The tour guide picks us up promptly at 715a; Wasabi Tours. If you only have one day to see the island, this is the way to do it. Only 12 tourists and our guide was Aileen, 24, adventuresome, and very knowledgable about her adopted home. She came to Hawai'i on a work exchange while in college then returned to live. She is a computer teacher at one of the elementary schools and part time tour guide. We started on the westwar...

The bus ride from our hotel to Pearl Harbor is about an hour and a half, so I got an early start. Traffic through downtown is not bad at 630a. I've been looking forward to touring Pearl Harbor since I found out I would be able to accompany Paul on this trip. The area around the military base -Pearl City - is tacky. Homeless have established a squatters camp along a dreary looking canal. A raggedy assemblage of tents, tarpaulins, and shopping carts. Lots of tourists were already moving towards the security checkpoint when the bus dropped me off at 745. Precisely at 755a each day, the Star Spangled Banner is played, all activity stops as we stand quietly, hands over hearts, hats in hand. 755am is the time the attack began on Pearl Harbor, December 7th, 1941. I stood at the ticket counter trying to decipher the different prices and tours, choose to see the Arizona (free), the Missouri and the newer Pacific Aviation Museum...ticket in hand I board the shuttle bus that takes us to Ford ...

So refreshing to escape the hustle of Waikiki and see one of the other islands. I bought a package to tour the Volcanoes and the waterfalls, got away earlier than expected. The flight over to Kona was brief and I have to say, the flight attendants on Hawaiian Airlines look like flight attendants should! The island is literally made of lava rock, weird, bubbly formations that create a black rolling landscape. The shuttle takes us to the Royal Kona Resort, a huge hotel right on the rocky shore. Built in about the early '70's, giant tiki gods and torches make up the decor...on closer inspection, it's more like the Royal Tiki Dump. Paul and I are spoiled with his platinum memberships at key hotel chains...I booked this one with the package and instead of our usual suite with ocean view....we get the 'mountain view,' which translates to parking lot.  Our intentions were to rent a Harley and ride around the island ... The local dealership is a short walk from the Royal Ko...

Made the trip to Chinatown early; I'm grateful I didn't go after dark! I've been to Chinatown in San Francisco, LA, Seattle, and Vancouver...love the cultural experience. THIS however was not the cultural experience as the others. The Chinese Cultural Center which is supposed to mark the gateway to the area was a homeless encampment. There were several homeless in wheel chairs, almost as if the local hospital decided to dump everyone without insurance in this location. It was frightening. All kind of crazy everywhere.  Undaunted, I was determined to shop the crowded stalls, seeking black cultured pearls.  The streets were congested with the elderly, doing their morning shopping for fruits, vegetables and fish. The smells were overwhelming; food smells mixed with the gamey smells of unwashed bodies. I walked through the food court where vendors offered up live crabs, every variety of fish, abolone, and beautiful deep red lychees. The assortment of prepared foods was eclectic...

IF I knew I was going to walk all over Honolulu today, I wouldn't have done my four mile walk today!Yikes! We have fallen into a routine here on the island; breakfast at five, Paul heads to Pearl City to work, I take off for my morning walk about by 6am. The sun is barely up and the strip along the beach is quiet, the most quiet it will be all day. I walk down the beach then cut over towards the park; the joggers are so numerous they almost need a traffic cop! It has been misting rain since 4am, but it's ok, very refreshing actually. I walk up the canal side and read the surfboard historical signs along my route, vowing to learn more about the history of these islands.  Today's morning activity is a hula lesson! Our instructor is Wei ( pronounce Vie w a long i )....he is a walking history lesson, a fountain of facts, and endless personal anecdotes. I could listen to him for hours, and I'm sure he could go on for hours, but a group has formed for our lesson on the deck o...

I headed out at 6am to walk off the jet lag, the sun was barely shedding light on Wakiki. There were several police along the beach in what looked like a sweep of the nights most obnoxious street people. I headed towards the leeward side of the island, it was quiet, unlike last nights cacophony of sounds. The Pacific a vivid turquoise with gently rolling waves. A few surfers were making their way to the water, some stopping to stretch on the sand before entering the water. I picked up my pace and followed the flagstone path along w joggers, other walkers, and a few just leisurely strolling while sipping coffee...most of the homeless were still sleeping. I left the beach behind and entered a residential area, circled around to a huge park, and headed back towards the hotel. I cut back over to the beach near a large ornate archway that read 'War Memorial.' I feel woefully deficient in the history of Hawaii and vow to pick up a copy of Micheners 'Hawaii' while I'm here...

So far my impression of Oahu....it is one big Freak Show on a Pacific Island setting. But I'm going on 20 hours of travel and no sleep, so I will reserve my opinion until I've had sleep and a chance to do a decent walk about. Paul is here to work, I'm just tagging along for the ride, see what I can see. We are staying right on Wakiki Beach....along with a few bazillion other tourists. The Marriott Resort is gorgeous! The ride from the airport is 13 miles....13 miles of homeless encampments sprouting like mushrooms along the sidewalks, littering the public parks, and abandoned buildings festooned w graffiti. After we checked in, we headed out for dinner - it's only 330p, but our stomachs are telling us it is 830p. We are just across the street from one of the worlds most famous beaches, expensive shops, opulent hotels....and the street people almost out number the Chinese tourists. Bedraggled urchins, some young, some not so young, carrying on conversations with unseen a...