IF I knew I was going to walk all over Honolulu today, I wouldn't have done my four mile walk today!Yikes!
We have fallen into a routine here on the island; breakfast at five, Paul heads to Pearl City to work, I take off for my morning walk about by 6am. The sun is barely up and the strip along the beach is quiet, the most quiet it will be all day. I walk down the beach then cut over towards the park; the joggers are so numerous they almost need a traffic cop! It has been misting rain since 4am, but it's ok, very refreshing actually. I walk up the canal side and read the surfboard historical signs along my route, vowing to learn more about the history of these islands.
Today's morning activity is a hula lesson! Our instructor is Wei ( pronounce Vie w a long i )....he is a walking history lesson, a fountain of facts, and endless personal anecdotes. I could listen to him for hours, and I'm sure he could go on for hours, but a group has formed for our lesson on the deck overlooking Wakiki Beach. Wei explains the hand movements, an intricate language that tells a story. He scurries about the patio, plucking flower blossoms from the trees then distributes them to his students, instructing us to smell first - we all obey, deeply inhaling the sweet fragrance - then tuck it behind our ear. No grass skirts or coconut bras....I still have my walking clothes on. We spend an hour and a half practicing the dance, listening to Wei's stories, and laughing... A lot.
I take a quick shower, grab my bus schedule and camera to head downtown. The goal is to see Chinatown and the Iolani Palace. Plus Wei told me about the Ward Warehouse where every conceivable book on Hawaii's history can be found. There are a plethora of buses on this island; most are tour buses. I'm looking for just a plain'ole city bus, but mistakenly jump on the red line bus. I sit down and the bus lurches forward. The attendant looks at me and says '$20 please.' For a bus ride!? It's the tour trolley....now I'm captive with about 100 Chinese and New Zealand tourists. Ok, at least it is a hop on hop off deal, good for all day...and the driver is spewing fairly interesting facts as we drive - not as interesting as Wei though. Plus I've already covered most of this real estate on my morning walks.
The driver points out the neighbor hood where Obama was born....ok, check. And on the opposite corner, Korean looking prostitutes pander flesh ( the area is known as Little Korea). Traffic is one big snarl, as we sit in the clog of vehicles, I glance over and see the Honolulu Art Museum. It was on my list of things to see, so I asked the driver if I can hop off...sure, we will be back around in about 45 minutes ( I'm thinking no way in this traffic)
http://honolulumuseum.org
The museum is relatively small, but the grounds are beautiful ; there is a strong Japanese influence to all the public parks and gardens, a pleasing feng shu. The gallery containing native art offers an extensive display of carved wooden bowls, not of the salad serving variety, but utilitarian in nature. Feathered collars and capes worn by royalty.
The modern art gallery has several interesting pieces; a Robert Frank photo, a Warhol photo, and several pieces by a Japanese artist who had to have been raped by a Catholic priest then possessed by Dominatrix.....angry, yet evocative. There is exquisite art from both Japan and China and I spend most of my time among the ancient pieces, taking a moment to sit in the beautiful Japanese garden and get my feng shue on.
As expected, the trolley had not made it thru the crush of traffic, I checked my map and decided it was quicker to walk the four or five blocks to the 'Lolani Palace. I passed the same car three times as I walked, I'm sure I arrived at my destination before they did.
The Palace sits behind the Capitol building in a splendid park setting - after all, it IS a palace. I buy my ticket and inquire about a place to eat. The ticket girl suggests the YWCA next door.....the Y? It is the first building in Hawaii designed and developed by a woman - Julia Morgan - in 1927. She is best known for having designs the Hearst Castle in California. The Laiakea YWCA is like stepping back in time to Colonial Hawaii; Ladies Who Lunch sip iced tea on the terrazzo tiled veranda amid lush palms and a gentle island breeze. When I think of a Y, I think of down on their luck individuals who have no other place to go...not here. My Chinese chicken salad w ice tea costs me $25...even with the 15% discount from the Palace!
But I'm fortified and get in line w the other tourists to tour the Palace. It is the only royal residence on American soil; built in 1882 it was the official residence of the Kalakana Dynasty until the overthrow of the Hawaiian Monarchy in 1893. The palace has been meticulously restored -we have to wear scruffier on our feet, no shoes-w original furnishings, artwork, China, books, etc. the ornate, hand carved wood staircase, arched doorways, crown molding and cabinetry is spectacular! The admission price includes an audio guided tour, and from all accounts, this royal family was all about the party! After viewing the Crown Jewels - hardly compares with the British monarchy's Crown Jewels but after all it IS an island...mostly casual I guess - I walk around the grounds to try and fin that damn red trolley.
Lots of buses pulling up across the street and down a ways, so again I walk, again I stand.....no red trolley. I spy a city bus that indicates it is going to Wakiki and the hotels....that's for me! Pay my $2.50 ( much better the $20) and grab a hand rail because there are no seats. I'm directly behind the driver who looks like a Hawaiian Ralph Cramden and not very friendly, each time he stops to pick up passengers, he opens his window and spits...lovely. I jump off once I see familiar landmarks near our home away from home the Marriott. Walking another five blocks, I meet up with Paul feeling like I've just hiked ten miles in rhinestone flip flops....which is exactly what I've done today. We change into bathing suits and hit the pool deck to catch some rays and tell each other about our day.
For dinner, I suggest the Sunset Beach Grill a few blocks up on the beach. Nothing more than a surf shack with picnic tables...but one of the more spectacular places along Wakiki to watch the sunset. I had BBQ pork w cabbage and rice and it was delicious. Dinner and a drink for both of us was just over $20.... Much better than my $25 lunch!
Overall the people of this island are very friendly, very welcoming ....but the expense to visit is astronomical!
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