,LOur room last night overlooked a meadow that led to the water then the endless horizon. I was awakened this morning with the pink and gold light streaming in the open window. I jumped out of bed grabbed my camera and my phone, walked around back and watched the sunrise....they don't call it The Sunrise Coast for nothin'!
We stop at the Canso Causeway that separates Cape Breton from the mainland of NS...still a very slight drizzle. We head north to the Cabot Trail on 104; stop for lunch at the Dancing Goat, a cafe and bakery near Middle River...I think. Fresh baked bread, homemade soups, and desserts...my goat is dancing. I had a avocado bacon on multi grain with black bean potato soup...topped it off with a rhubarb apple crisp that reminded me of my Grandma Fishers rhubarb pie...yum! Walked across the street to an art galaxy and found a pair of earrings made from the NS beach glass...here's a link to the story behind the beach glass:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_glass
Walk back to the hotel and congratulate each other for stopping early today to enjoy some of the local color.
When there is no coffee until 7a and we are up at 5; makes for a rough start. We packed the bikes - moving like Zombies - layered up, because not only is it chilly, there is a front chasing us, the air is heavy with the smell of rain. We say 'adieu' to the sleepy little hamlet of Tatamagouche, fire up the Hogs ( late sleepers hate us) and head East. Two more villages and nothing open for coffee....it is now at the point of desperation for caffeine. Somewhere around Marshville, I spy a wide spot in the road w gas pumps...coffee?! It's one of those run down fuel stops, privately owned, that also serves as a feed store, hardware store, DVD rental, coffee bar, and auto parts store. We are stared at by the occupants of two pick up trucks as we strip off helmets and one outer layer. We are greeted at the door by a very fat, very noisy wiener dog who senses that we are not locals. The Chinese lady behind the counter calls the wiener dog off so we can make our way thru the myriad of sundries to the coffee counter because this is way too much commotion for my caffeine starved brain. And I'm sure the Chines lady ( who also operates the Noodle Emporium attached to the gas station) has a fascinating story as to how she ended up on the north east shore of Nova Scotia...but I'm too self absorbed with my need for coffee to care. She has vanilla syrup AND creamer...we have hit the mother lode! Paul and I each pour a very large cup and I stumble back outside, sipping the Nectar of the Gods. Meh's ( that's the Chinese Lady) wiener dog goes nuts again as we leave...we sit outside at the picnic table, not talking, just getting our fix, and watching the clouds get thicker. I've had on two shirts since we crossed north of the Mason Dixon line; today I started with two shirts, a Goretex pullover, rain pants , heavy leather jacket then my rain jacket over that. I'm so fat I can barely leg up over the bike!
Another 60 miles down the road is Pictou Harbor, and a Tim Hortons! Breakfast.....And more coffee. Of course I have to shed two layers of clothes just to go the the bathroom. At this point we are moving away from the coastal route and taking Canadian Hwy 104 to Cape Breton Island. The weather has made a turn, misting rain, not enough to stop for, the asphalt is good...it's why we have rain gear. The road sign prior to the causeway cautioned 'blowing snow ahead,'....I'm thinking that's not too far off today.
It is a beautiful ride thru forest farmland, and seaside villages. I'm in awe of the lupine that grows in abundance along the roadways and open fields. Deep purple to white, with every conceivable shade deviation in between, the tall flowers seem to bend in greeting as we ride by! Traffic is very light, couldn't ask for a better riding day....even the drizzle gives us a break every now and then with a patch of sunshine.
We have reservations in Cheticamp and planned to stop early; shortly after lunch we connect with The Cabot Trail and I'm nearly giddy...I've been planning to make this trip for six years...I'm here! The trail winds toward the coast fairly quickly, elevation changes and there are amazing views around every curve.
Cheticamp is a harbor town overlooking the water. We check into our hotel, prop our feet up on the deck railing and watch the fishing boats come in. We stroll down the Main Street, along the water, and check out a few shops. Anna Casnos is hooking rugs...more like wall hangings because you would not want to walk on these works of art. I chat w her for a little while about her craft and buy three pieces.
Across the street in front of Le Gabriel restaurant, I spy a sign that touts 'Live Music.' We check out the menu and learn the music starts at 7p...we return for dinner to find the parking lot packed. The bar area where the music takes place is huge, and we sit down to phenomenal seafood and two local boys who TEAR UP the fiddle and electric piano with Celtic music. One of the best meals we've had in weeks ( I had Halibut cheeks....a delicacy, and melt in your mouth good), the music was awesome
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