The first rigorous challenge of the day? Finding coffee. The island doesn't exactly wake up when we do; the complimentary coffee in the room barely fills two micro cups and tastes like someone passed a coffee bean over hot water. Kona is just a little strip along the rocky coast with an assortment of shops and restaurants, so choices are limited. We head out for what turns into our first hike of the day...about a mile and a half until one little coffee shop opens. We sit across from the ocean, gulping our cup of rich Kona blend like the coffee addicts we are.
The tour guide picks us up promptly at 715a; Wasabi Tours. If you only have one day to see the island, this is the way to do it. Only 12 tourists and our guide was Aileen, 24, adventuresome, and very knowledgable about her adopted home. She came to Hawai'i on a work exchange while in college then returned to live. She is a computer teacher at one of the elementary schools and part time tour guide.
We started on the westward side of the island, driving along the lava fields ( the Kona airport is literally built on a lava flow) and listening to Aileens chatty narration. It is a bright, clear, sunny day....the Gods are with us in terms of the weather. Off in the distance we see Mauna Kea, with an elevation of 13,796, it is home to several research telescopes and has the distinction of Arctic like weather at its summit.
We turn inland towards Waimea, through rolling pasture land.....cows, there are cows! This part of the island is known for its Cowboys and rodeos ( who would have thought!?). The huge Parker Ranch occupies much of the area we travel through. We cut back over to the Leeward side to stop at Waipi'o Valley Lookout. A Tsunami in the late 1800's wiped out the entire village that lived in the valley. There are a few hardy souls that still make their home there, sans electricity and running water. The road to the valley is only accessible by four wheel drive vehicles. We hike down to the lookout point ( which much grumbling from 3 of our fellow tourists who find something to complain about at every stop). It is probably one of the most spectacular views I've witnessed since being in the islands.
Aileen has brought fresh pineapple and chocolate chip cookies! We love you Aileen! We now head south on the leeward side of the island for the trip to Akaka Falls, north of Hilo and a little ways inland. Lots of twisty asphalt, Paul and I look at each other and without saying a word we agree this would be a great ride on the bikes! Aileen points out the organic lettuce farm where she worked for three months ( living in a tent overlooking the ocean...ahhhhh, to be that young and carefree again...), there are also sweet potato fields, sugarcane and an abundance of fruit that is grown in this area.
We hike down to the falls ( yes the chunky trio from Jersey complains about this as well...although the requirements for the tour clearly stated the hiking was fairly rigorous ...) and snap our photos, marveling at the view. There are two species of fish that migrate from the ocean, UP the falls and spawn in the pool at the top of the falls....then die. Amazing.
The drive along the ocean from Honoka'a to Hilo Bay is spectacular; very lush landscape, in stark contrast to the lava fields on the westward side.
Hilo is a quiet little harbor town...older buildings and shops. We are here to see Rainbow Falls. Paul and I set out w the three boys from Australia to hike to the top of the falls where we are treated to a canopy of Banyon trees that have grown so thick it reminds me of a forest retreat for Hobbits and such. The islanders would call them Menehune, the Little People. Mango trees abound and the ripe fruit has littered the forest floor, making it slick, but oh so sweet smelling!
Next stop lunch! Aileen takes us to an orchid farm where we sit among thousands of orchids in every conceivable color and size! The fragrance or orchids and plumeria is intoxicating . Aileen pulls bamboo lunch boxes from a huge insulated bag, distributes them among her hungry travelers and we almost squeal with delight ( well, I do, because I'm easily entertained, but the Jersey trio lift the lids with great skepticism), to find sesame chicken, rice, coconut crusted Mahi Mahi and edamame....all organized into little square boxes within the box! The feng shue was complete. It was very peaceful eating our Asian inspired box lunch ( well it IS Wasabi Tours) among the fragrant orchids.
Post lunch, we head south to Volcano National Park, traveling thru the rain forest climate/terrain of the island. It is much cooler here and a misty cloud cover has formed. We stop to see Kilauea from a distance, steam rising out of the giant crater from across a barren, black landscape. Pele, the volcano Goddess, is not angry today, so there are no real eruptions, although it is an 'active' volcano.
We hike down to the Thurston Lava tube; created when the outside lava cools while the molten, flowing lava continues to pass through it on its way to the ocean. Way cool!
We drive around Crater Rim Drive where we are now on top of Kilauea, Mauna Loa ( the other active volcano on the island is off on the distance). The Jagger Museum ( no, not Mick) and gift shop are here as well. I'm amazed at the landscape and the ferocity of the geology...I can only imagine the spectacular scene of this giant cauldron actually erupting. Check out this YouTube video;
Which was shot in April of 2015 ....a mini eruption and we just missed it!
Our last leg of the journey is a stop along Punalu'u Beach where the volcanic earth has created a black sand beach, one of only a few on Earth. This is also where sea turtles come to lay their eggs. The cove is tropical island idyllic, but crowded. A rock barrier has been established to protect the turtles who have come ashore...thank goodness, there is always one dumbass tourist who thinks the laws don't apply to them and they have to get that picture touching the sea turtle to take back to Bum Fuck Iowa.
It being Fathers Day, my Dad was weighing heavy on my mind all day in spite of the many diversions. I knelt in the rocky cove and built an Inuikshuk to mark the path, so say 'I was here,' and to let Dad know we miss him. I trust he is still on the right path; he would have loved hearing about our trip to the islands.
Our journey back to Kona lasts about an hour and a half, with a quick rest stop at a local bakery. Passion fruit cheesecake is my choice and after the first bite, I silently congratulate myself for making the right choice. Aileen chats her way back to Kona where the drop offs begin. She has graciously agreed to take Paul and I to the airport. When it's just us three in the van, I fall into full Mommy mode asking Aileen, 'are you here alone ( no, she has a boyfriend)?' 'Do you see your family ( yes, she just spent two weeks back home)?' 'How do you exist w living expenses so high ( she's very industrious and works several jobs)?' She's the same age as my MacKenzie and I can t imagine having her so far away. Paul and I left her a very generous tip as we said 'Aloha' at the airport ( I had to restrain myself from asking her to stop at a local,grocery store so I could load up her van with food and toiletries like I used to do for my daughters)....good luck Aileen, I admire your adventuresome spirit!
We are weary but grateful as we wait on our flight back to Oahu. Touring Hawai'i gave us a whole different perspective of this Pacific paradise. Returning to the noise and hustle of the Marriott on Waikiki almost felt like home.
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