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"The twisties, not the super-slabs, separate the riders from the squids.”


June 22nd, 2013

I spent most of my life with the attitude of ‘how fast can I get there?’ or worse, ‘how fast can I get away?’ Ironically, it took a big, fast, powerful motorcycle to slow me down. I never understood the phrase, ‘its about the journey, not the destination’ until I climbed aboard my first Harley Davidson.  The last several years that I have had my bike, I’ve never been in a hurry to get anywhere; I told my Dad last night, ‘I might get there on Wednesday....I’ll call.’ 

I stayed just off 28 last night in North Augusta; 28 is the Savannah River Scenic Byway (mostly in South Carolina) - there are these wonder Scenic Byways all over the country. Its how travel used to be, before mega Interstates were built and ushered in the ‘how fast can I get there’ mentality. I cruised at a leisurely pace along gently curving asphalt; slowing down every so often for a little wide spot in the road - someones home town. 

A couple of hours and I hit Interstate 85; and BOOM! there I was....squeezing the throttle to 75mph....amazing how travel goes from slow to fast in seconds. Not before I stopped at the Timm’s Harley Davidson in Anderson South Carolina. The service manager fixed the lock on my saddlebag and didn’t even charge me! I even met Timm himself; 85 years old, started the dealership in 1948 after he left the service in WWII. What a great guy!  My plan was to take the Interstate East across South Carolina to where SC 11 intersects with 85 near Gaffney.  SC 11 is the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway; I double backed and headed West across South Carolina. Lots of bikes on the road; going both ways. 

Savannah River Byway
SC 11 dips, rolls, and curves gently; I picked up 130 - where the fun REALLY begins - and went North through the Nantahala National Forest. Bessie2 and I didn’t get into 5th gear much with all the twisty-turnys. I connected with a group of three bikes in front of me and road the curves with them for about two hours. We stopped at the first gas station and introduced ourselves; I love bikers - good people. I chatted with the only girl with the two guys - Amy - and I heard that dreaded phrase for the second time today, ‘you mean you rode all the way from Florida BY YOURSELF?!’ uttered by Amy; who confessed that she was envious I was able to take off and just ride.....she said she hoped to do that someday....I hope you do too Amy - life is too short to just think about it. 

I said farewell to my new friends and decided it was time to start looking for lodging; I knew I was deep in the mountains and would need to travel an hour or more to Highlands or Walhalla.  65 West is chock full of gut wrenching turns and switchbacks; then I made a horribly wrong turn, not realizing I was actually IN Highlands. Honest to God, I hit curves and switchbacks that warned - 10 mph! When you
This is NOT a good motorcycle road!
are going 10mph on a big, fully loaded Harley Davidson, you are almost on your side! Then I hit a GRAVEL ROAD..........noooooooo, not good on a motorcycle! Damn. And nowhere to turn around; I slipped and slided for about five miles and spied two four wheel drives on the left; three teenagers were hanging out (!?) and I stopped. I realized I had missed HIghlands, the kids pushed and pulled me until I was able to get the bike turned around without dumping it......then I traversed those treacherous curves all the way back UP the mountain to HIGHLANDS....and this time I made sure I didn’t miss it. I honestly wanted to cry I was so on edge; Bessie2 and I mastered those curves though! Hot Damn yes we did.  And thats why I ride; to challenge myself, to feel a sense of accomplishment, and to develop a sense of adventure.

I pulled into the first reasonably- priced- looking lodge I found; I don’t think it would have mattered if the rate was $200/night, I was so anxious and tired I would have paid it. Fortunately I didn’t have to, it was a reasonable $89/night with a wine and cheese reception!  Although the area is gorgeous and my room is rustic comfy...Highlands NC is not exactly a biker town; lots of high dollar shops and restaurants. I’m just grateful to have survived the afternoon and look forward to a good nights rest.
Bessie2 - Curve Queen


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