Skip to main content

"The twisties, not the super-slabs, separate the riders from the squids.”


June 22nd, 2013

I spent most of my life with the attitude of ‘how fast can I get there?’ or worse, ‘how fast can I get away?’ Ironically, it took a big, fast, powerful motorcycle to slow me down. I never understood the phrase, ‘its about the journey, not the destination’ until I climbed aboard my first Harley Davidson.  The last several years that I have had my bike, I’ve never been in a hurry to get anywhere; I told my Dad last night, ‘I might get there on Wednesday....I’ll call.’ 

I stayed just off 28 last night in North Augusta; 28 is the Savannah River Scenic Byway (mostly in South Carolina) - there are these wonder Scenic Byways all over the country. Its how travel used to be, before mega Interstates were built and ushered in the ‘how fast can I get there’ mentality. I cruised at a leisurely pace along gently curving asphalt; slowing down every so often for a little wide spot in the road - someones home town. 

A couple of hours and I hit Interstate 85; and BOOM! there I was....squeezing the throttle to 75mph....amazing how travel goes from slow to fast in seconds. Not before I stopped at the Timm’s Harley Davidson in Anderson South Carolina. The service manager fixed the lock on my saddlebag and didn’t even charge me! I even met Timm himself; 85 years old, started the dealership in 1948 after he left the service in WWII. What a great guy!  My plan was to take the Interstate East across South Carolina to where SC 11 intersects with 85 near Gaffney.  SC 11 is the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway; I double backed and headed West across South Carolina. Lots of bikes on the road; going both ways. 

Savannah River Byway
SC 11 dips, rolls, and curves gently; I picked up 130 - where the fun REALLY begins - and went North through the Nantahala National Forest. Bessie2 and I didn’t get into 5th gear much with all the twisty-turnys. I connected with a group of three bikes in front of me and road the curves with them for about two hours. We stopped at the first gas station and introduced ourselves; I love bikers - good people. I chatted with the only girl with the two guys - Amy - and I heard that dreaded phrase for the second time today, ‘you mean you rode all the way from Florida BY YOURSELF?!’ uttered by Amy; who confessed that she was envious I was able to take off and just ride.....she said she hoped to do that someday....I hope you do too Amy - life is too short to just think about it. 

I said farewell to my new friends and decided it was time to start looking for lodging; I knew I was deep in the mountains and would need to travel an hour or more to Highlands or Walhalla.  65 West is chock full of gut wrenching turns and switchbacks; then I made a horribly wrong turn, not realizing I was actually IN Highlands. Honest to God, I hit curves and switchbacks that warned - 10 mph! When you
This is NOT a good motorcycle road!
are going 10mph on a big, fully loaded Harley Davidson, you are almost on your side! Then I hit a GRAVEL ROAD..........noooooooo, not good on a motorcycle! Damn. And nowhere to turn around; I slipped and slided for about five miles and spied two four wheel drives on the left; three teenagers were hanging out (!?) and I stopped. I realized I had missed HIghlands, the kids pushed and pulled me until I was able to get the bike turned around without dumping it......then I traversed those treacherous curves all the way back UP the mountain to HIGHLANDS....and this time I made sure I didn’t miss it. I honestly wanted to cry I was so on edge; Bessie2 and I mastered those curves though! Hot Damn yes we did.  And thats why I ride; to challenge myself, to feel a sense of accomplishment, and to develop a sense of adventure.

I pulled into the first reasonably- priced- looking lodge I found; I don’t think it would have mattered if the rate was $200/night, I was so anxious and tired I would have paid it. Fortunately I didn’t have to, it was a reasonable $89/night with a wine and cheese reception!  Although the area is gorgeous and my room is rustic comfy...Highlands NC is not exactly a biker town; lots of high dollar shops and restaurants. I’m just grateful to have survived the afternoon and look forward to a good nights rest.
Bessie2 - Curve Queen


Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Plan? What Plan?

"Embrace uncertainty. Some of the most beautiful chapters in our lives won't have titles until much later." In the last few months I've been asked from several readers and followers, 'How do you plan your trips?' I also see the question asked numerous times (like over and over and over and over...) on the various biker-related groups on social media.  Penny Tours I confess: I'm not much of a planner! I ride in the spirit of the intrepid Bessie Stringfield, a pioneer of the sport of motorcycling who in 1930 became the first black woman to ride solo across the U.S.. Bessie was notorious for her 'Penny Tours.' She would toss a penny in the air and wherever it landed on her map of the U.S.....that is the direction she would travel. And yes; I've done the Penny Tour many times. Just a few weeks ago in Indiana; I had a 'free' day between events and tossed the penny on the map of Indiana. It landed in the northern part of the state near the
2 comments
Read more

Summer Road Trip 2014_Final Thoughts

I awoke Friday morning exhausted; as if someone had put on boxing gloves and gently but consistently pummeled me from head to toe. I dreaded the long journey ahead of us. Since arriving in Indiana early Wednesday morning, it had been   a whirlwind of responsibilities. Mine were minimal compared to what my brother and sister had already had to do to arrange the funeral, tie up loose ends, and cover all the bases that need covering when a parent dies. After the service and dinner at the church, I think we all felt a foreboding. Our Grandparents were gone,   our Mom was gone, our Dad was gone…..who does the family gather around from this point forward? We were all at loose ends. The trip back to Florida would be another ‘get on the super slab and ride’ kinda trip….the worst. I-75 South is congested with traffic, and the Weather Gods were not going to be in our favor today.   We gulped a cup of coffee, my brother gave me a hug and we TRIED to slip out quietly…
3 comments
Read more

#Scattered: The Hike

Setting the scene: Della, Tish, and Ann have left Chicago on their bikes on a journey west to scatter their friend Bree’s ashes in Sedona. A trip along Route 66 from its origin in Chicago to the Santa Monica Pier in L.A. on their motorcycles was the foursomes’ dream. When Bree was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer her dying wish was for her three friends to make the trip in her memory with a stop in Sedona to scatter her ashes among the mystical red rocks. This scene picks up on the three women – Della - who carries Brees’ ashes in her tour pack, Tish and Ann – approximately 300 miles west of Chicago on their first day out. ~ Della thought a little commune with nature would do everyone good. At the previous rest stop (Jesus… how many times would Ann signal she needed to pee?) Della suggested a little side trip to St. Genevieve outside of St. Louis to enjoy a short hike and a stretch.  Ann: Oh! how fun!  Tish: (after a major eye roll in Ann’s direction) Sounds Great! Della tapped the co
Post a Comment
Read more